[from Yn Lioar Manninagh Vol 1 p150/156]

EXCURSION TO BALLAUGH.

The first excursion of the season was made on Thursday, June 7th, 1888 when, notwithstanding a very wet morning, a number of members arrived, the trains, by the courtesy of Mr. Cameron, the manager, stopping for them to alight at the Orry’sdale platform. Mr J. C. Crellin, leader for the day conducted them to the field on Bishop’s Court demesne known as " Croit Hom Ralfe," i.e., Tom Ralfe’s croft, so called from a former tenant—viz Tom Ralfe Callister. Southwards, across the highroad, Slieau Curn sloped upward to a height of 1,152 feet, and is the end, in this direction, of the mountain range, and of the clay slate, the main formation of the Island. From the foot of the mountain, the boulder clay, or pleistocene formation extends southwards to Glion Moar, westwards to the coast about a mile distant, where excellent sections exhibit the character of this whole formation, and north and eastwards to Ayre, and round the foot of the hill to Ramsey. The field slopes eastwards to a hollow which until very recently was under water. All around are smooth rounded hills, of soft red sand and gravel, resting on clay, now affording good pasture ; but not long since covered with gorse and burrowed by rabbits. Between the field and the sea coast, which is being eroded at the rate of about a yard a year—a whole quarterland, on which Lord’s rent is still paid, being now actually beneath the waves—these sand hills are continued, reaching a height of 140 feet at Orry’sdale Head. Except at Orry’sdale, Bishop’s Court, and immediately around some of the farm houses, no trees are now to be seen. The larger pool by the highroad was formed by digging marle ; here the little grebe builds its nest, which occasionally has been flooded and destroyed; and now the swallows skim its surface hunting their tiny insect prey; trout which have been placed in this pool grow to an enormous size; and here flourish the beautiful bog bean, and the bright water crowfoot, with pond weeds, and other water-loving plants. A little north of the railroad stands a great prright stone of clay slate, which must have been brought from a distance. In a line about south-west of this, two smaller mounds near the foot of the natural slope of the sand hills had been found to contain large cists, and were now to be the scene of the day’s work. At noon, upon the arrival of the train which was to stop for the benefit of members from the south, the Leader, gathering his party on an eminence in the field which commanded an extensive view, gave a very clear description of the locality, and pointed out all the places of archæological interest which were in view.

THE VIEW FROM CROIT HOM RALFE.

Looking almost due west from this spot, he said, you will observe a narrow cutting in the land through which a small stream finds its way to the sea, rising on the slope of Slieau Curn, and flowing through Bishop’s Court. I think it probable that a great portion of the land around us, and between us and that stream, was under water at one time, and that through that hollow the water escaped to the sea. In the meadows lying north-west of Bishop’s Court remains of pine forests have been found. Beginning at the aboven mentioned stream, known by the name of " Glen Trunk" (the meaning of which I have not been able to find out), and working in a northerly direction, we come first to a tumulus in which a cist was found . A few hundred yards north from that point once stood a Keeill chapel and burial ground, known by the name of " Keeil Pharlane," i.e., " St. Bartholemew’s Church." This has been entirely washed away by the sea. A cist was many years ago seen protruding from the sand cliff below the Keeill, in which bones were found, and a little to the west an urn was discovered about half way down the side of the broogh. This was described by the Rev. E. B. Savage on the 22nd of January last. The next hill we can see is Cronk Koir, the hill of the Chest. A roadway has been cut through the centre of this, and no doubt cists were found there, or as the Manx people call them " chests." A circle of white stones, a few of which, I am sorry to say, have been removed for gate posts, known by the name of " Craig-Bane-y-Billvilly"," the white rock of Willie, the son of Bill." You will notice a few fields further north, looking a little nearer to us, but still keeping the same direction, we come to " Cronk-Ailey"—"the hill of fire." Three cists were taken from this tumulus some years ago, one large one and two small ones, and have been set up at Orry’s-dale in their original position ; urns were found in them, but fell to pieces. The fragments are preserved in one of them. Coming still nearer to us is "Cronk-y-sthowyr—the Hill of the Staff, or Pole. Here an urn was found. Close alongside of the latter you will notice a hill with a white stone upon it., This is called " Cronk-y-Clagh-Vane "—the hill of the white stone. I think that is undoubtedly a tumulus, but have not heard of it being opened.

Many pieces of flint can be found there. "Cronk Unjin"—the hill of the ash tree—comes next, and then " Cronk Beg,"—the little hill. A very fine tumulus lies just in front of us. This is known by the name of " Cronk Armyn "—the hill of weapons. Very large bones were once taken out of this tumulus, and I am afraid destroyed or thrown away. Then comes "Cronk Glass"—or the green hill ; a natural formation. Over its elbow is seen the tower of Ballaugh Church. The mouth of Ballaugh Glen is now seen, and on its opposite slope, behind Cronk Ould, you can plainly discern the Cashtal Lajer, or strong castle, an earthwork fortification in a good state of preservation, described by the Rev. W. Kermode, Oct. 16th, 1872. The "Faaie-ny-Cabbal," which means the chapel, close, or croft, is some distance below the fort near Ballaugh river, which we cannot see from here,

A short distance from the highroad, in an easterly direction from where stand, you can see the remains of Ballacurn-keeil. In the same direction but in a field next to us, by Alpine Cottage, there were some 30 years a keeil and a tumulus found to contain numerous urns. This was known by the name of Cronk-skeylt, the Cloven, or Split Hill. It was all carted away to improve the field for agricultural purposes, many urns being destroyed at the time. Looking south from here, about 300 yards above the highroad was the "Cabbal Rullickey," which means " the Chapel belonging to Church Yard." This is entirely gone. A cist is still believed to be there. Mr. Wood, in his account of the Isle of Man, speaks of 14 urns being found on Bishop’s Court in the time of the Commonwealth ; one finer than the rest was buried in silver sand. It is just possible that the mound about 200 yards south of where we stand, was the one they were taken from. The other mound a little to the right is said, in dry weather, to show a distinct ring round it about halfway up. Probably cists could be found there. The top of it, was removed to fill up hollows. We have now completed the circle, and come round to the point from which we started. All the places I have spoken to you about can be seen from where we stand, except three, one of those being washed away by the sea. About a mile from here, and nearly due north there is a stone circle, which I believe has been dug into, but whether anything was found I do not know. Close by is " Cronk-Coar," " the Uneven Hill," where some urns were found, and on the top of the brooghs, overlooking the sea, about tnree years ago, we found several urns, one of which contained a bone needle. The name Orry’sdale, which has been so spelt for about 100 years, was originally written "Orestal." The termination "tal" is common in this Island, e.g., " Cranstal," " Skerristal." What "Oris" means I cannot say, though we do find "Oris" meaning a blackcock, so that it might signify " the Place of the Blackcock," but this I think very unlikly. If such a person as Orry ever existed, I think it more likely it was called after him. The stone you see standing on end before us is eight feet above the ground, and nearly the same depth below the surface. An old man living in the neighbourhood discovered this by trying to dig to the bottom of it, which he must have succeeded in doing, as the stone since then leans to one side. It is five feet wide at the surface, and formerly was so to the top but has been broken. It is said that this stone was picked up on the mountains by a giant, and that he was carrying it off to the coast to sink a vessel at sea.

STONE GRAVES AND THEIR CONTENTS—DISCOVERY OF AN URN.

Having allowed time for discussion, the leader moved to the spot, S.W. of the large upright stone, where the first cist had been already disclosed. A large slab, 8 feet 6 inches by 10 inches wide and about 6 inches deep, lay due E. and W. South of this, and in part overlapping it, lay a slab, 4 feet 6 inches N. and S.,by 2 feet 9 inches E. and W., and 7 to 9 inches thick ; a few inches W. of this, another slab, set edgeways, and a similar, but rather longer one, 2 feet 2 inches W. of it, the N. ends of these two reaching to the first-mentioned long slab. It was at once evident that these were the side-stones of a cist or stone chamber ; on clearing out the sandy soil from between them to a depth of 18 inches, a smaller slab was found in the northern half of the chamber, and this overlapped another somewhat similar one, several small pieces of thin, slaty stones lying on the top ; when cleared it became evident these were the end stones of the same cist, which had fallen in. on removing these, some large bones were seen, a femur, tibia, &c., and at the other end near the long slab, a mass of earth and crumbled bone matted in root fibres, the body having evidently been laid head northwards, in a doubled-up position. Though clearly a case of inhumation, small pieces of charcoal were found in the soil, but no appearance of an urn or calcined bone. Upon turning over the large square slab, the upper face of which, as it now lay, was flat. and the other rounded, the soil beneath seemed loose, and, at a depth of 2 feet, were rounded pebbles and pieces of quartz, which almost suggested the idea of a pavement, though it seems more likely they came there by natural agencies, perhaps being the original surface. Just outside the SE. corner of the first chamber was more charcoal, and the soil showed traces of burning. There were no supporting stones under the slab, either for the sides or ends, and it might originally have been the covering of the cist just described. The long stone was now rolled back, but nothing was found beneath, although the soil seemed loose. Like the others, it had been burrowed under by rabbits. It was suggested that this long slab had originally been placed upright to mark the spot ; if so, it may have been deposited in its present position so as not to interfere with the plough. When the covering slab was turned over, it seemed impossible that it could have fallen as it now lay. The bones haying been replaced, this interesting relic was again covered up. Another cist, about 26 yards N.S.W. of the large stone, in a very perfect cordition, had a covering slab, 3 feet 8 inches by 2 feet 8 inches, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E., and very similar in appearance to the last, rough and rounded above, flat underneath. On turning this over, the chamber was seen to be formed of four slabs on edge all sloping outward to the top. The loose sand had filled up the chamber. In it were found two small fragments of skull ; against the side of the stone (S.W.), and about half way to the bottom of the cist, was a very perfect and beautiful little urn, much the shape of a modern flower pot, 3¾ inches high by 4½ inches diameter at the mouth, and 17/8 inches diameter at the bottom. For about ¾ inch from the rim also within the lip, it was ornamented by a zig-zag or herring bone pattern. This, which was taken home by the Bishop, was afterwards found to contain nothing but sand. It rested, as usual, mouth downwards. Some small pieces of charcoal were again met with but nothing more ; and the cist was again filled in. In both the excavations small pieces of broken red quartz and pelbbles, and even a bit of were mingled with the soil, but they were without order, and appeared be accidental, being found in the sand throughout the field. Both had been burrowed through with rabbits ; the stones, from their appearance, may have been brought from Gob-y-Volley. No large boulders were found in neighbourhood, and the natural rock is at a great and unknown depth. After this the way was taken to Cronk Clagh Bane. Following Ballan-jiarg—"red lane"—so called from the red sandy soil—for a short distance, and turning west, the site of an old Cabbal was passed, the name of which is lost. Coming to the hill many flint flakes were picked It was undoubtedly a natural formation, but, so far as could be judged outward appearance, the top had been utilized as a burial mound, crowned by a crcle of large white quartz boulders ; only one of these however, was visible, and it gave the name to the Cronk. A few yards was Cronk Stouyer, where urns had been exhumed ; it may have be signal point at sea, commanding as it does an extensive view from Peel, Jurby Head, and the hills, with the lowlands at their feet.

THE COLLECTION AT ORRYSDALE.

Orrysdale being reached, an hour was spent with much pleasure. The large and very interesting collections of natural history and antiquarian objects were shown and discussed, the re-constructed stone cists referred to by the leader, and a cup-marked piece of sandstone recently rescued from the highroad were particularly remarked, and altogether the members most pleasantly and hospitably entertained.

MEETING AT BISHOP’S COURT.

At about 4-15 p.m. Bishop’s Court was reached, and here again members were received with kindly hospitality, and after viewing the many things of interest, and discussing the events of the day, settled down in the hall for the purpose of holding the regular meeting as announced. Tellet, vice-president, having taken the chair in the absence of Mr. Jeffcot from whom a telegram had been received expressing inability to attend owing to the stormy weather, Deemster Gill, on behalf of the General Committee-—of which there had been a regular meeting at Orrysdale proposed the following for election as honorary members —Prof. Carvil Lewis, Professor Storms, and Miss Buckland. Their election, he thought would be a pleasant memento of the excursion last autunm from the British Association. The recommendation was on unanimously adopted. Two ordinary members were duly nominated.

THE ELKS.

Deemster Gill, in reply to a question concerning the Elk, at Ballaloughs said that last year, when President of the Society, he had collected information on the subject of this and other specimens previously found in the Island, At least three had been met with at Ballaugh, of which one had gone off the Island, the most perfect being the complete skeleton now in Edinburgh Museum; of the remaining one, the head and antlers former belonging to Mr. W. Gell, of Douglas, were now in the museum of King William’s College. Of three other skeletons found near St. John’s, the head and horns only were preserved. These also appear to have been taken off the Island. As to that for which it was now proposed to search, an unsucessful attempt had been made to exhume it many years ago. During the espicopate of Bishop Bowstead, a further attempt was contemplated, but abandoned on the translation of the Bishop to Lichfield. The exact spot where the fossil lies being unknown, some difficulty may be experienced in finding it, and, in any case, funds will be required. The Committee propose to raise the amount by subscription among the members of the Society and others, and should find no difficulty in obtaining sufficient at least to commence the search for what must be an object of the greatest interest to the people of this island, especially as all the specimens, except one, have been allowed to leave the Island The generous proprietress of . the land has given liberty for the search, on condition that whatever may be found shall be retained in the Island for public exhibition. A sum of about £ 50 should be raised before commencing. Mr. Walker had kindly examined the ground, and taken levels for draining it, and had promised to assist in the search, which should commence during the summer, when the springs are low. He hoped the Committee’s appeal for funds would meet with an early and liberal response.

Reference was made to the first specimen found (which was in Ballaugh) and now in the Industrial Museum, Edinburgh, and to other remains which had been met with in the Isle of Man. After some discussion, in which the Bishop (who offered to contribute a guinea for the purposes of the Committee), Mr. Crellin, Rev. W. Kermode, and the Attorney-General, chiefly took part, the names of the Rev. ‘N. Kermode and Mr. Crellin were added to the Elk Committee, and power given to add to their number.

PROPOSED MAGAZINE.

On behalf of the General Committee, Deemster Gill recommended that, if found practicable, the Society should publish periodically a small magazine, to contain reports of meetings, papers, notices, correspondence, and record of observations generally, and notes and queries. With over a hundred ordinary members it should be possible to support this, which, it was suggested, should be so worked that it might be sold to members at a cost of about one shilling a year, and to the public at a little more. Perhaps the Society would be asked to contribute a small sum out of the general fund to help it. If decided to do this, the first number of the Magazine would contain an account of the annual meeting, with the valuable reports of sections and committees, besides other matter. This recommendation having been discussed and generally approved of mention was made of the Transactions of the Society, of which very few copies had been sold ; also of the Report of the British Association Excursion. These had been paid for out of the general funds but in the expectation that the cost should be repaid by members and their friends purchasing copies. The Secretary was, there-fore, requested to bring the matter forcibly under the notice of members, urging them to buy copies.

A communication was handed in from Mr G . T. Porritt, F.L.S., F.E.S., containing an account of an " Entomological Expedition to North Wales and the Isle of Man." [See Report of the Entomological, Sections, Yn Lioar Manninagh, No. 2, p. 61]

At the termination of the meeting, the Bishop, in a pleasant and humorous speech, proposed a vote of thanks to Mr. Crellin for his very successful leadership. He thought, as he listened to his clear and lucid description that morning, that it was a great pity he had so far been almost a silent member in the ancient House of Keys ; evidently it was not for lack of eloquence or the power of perspicuous expression. For his own part he confessed he had been a sceptic, and when he heard that large stones had been met with by the plough or uncovered by the spade, he did think they might have belonged to a drain ! On saying something to this effect to out of the members that morning he felt abashed and reproved by the seven expression of countenance which greeted his remarks ; he no longer could be sceptical, and he was sorry that he had ever doubted. Fom the knowledge he had now obtained of the richness of the historic and prehistoric associations of the neighbourhood, he would derive a greater pleasure an’ interest in his beautiful surroundings. He would prize, as one of the greatest treasures of Bishop’s Court, the beautiful urn he had seen exhumed, and afterwards brought home safely in his own hands. He hoped their leader, the Captain of the Parish of Ballaugh, would continue his exertions, and add yet more to their antiquarian knowledge ; he trusted, also, he might be successful in the long looked-for hunting of the famous elk.

Deemster Gill seconded the motion, which was carried with applause, and Mr Crellin made a suitable acknowledgment. He particularly expressed himself grateful to the Bishop for his kindness in permitting them to under. take the search, and for his help in sending his own men to dig. When on Tuesday last he and a few friends went over the ground, they had made certain trials with a spade, that members should not be disappointed or spend their time to no purpose. It did not, as it happened, take long to discover the exact spot where the cists lay buried, as the stones were so very near the surface that, with the dry weather on that light sandy soil, the grass was almost bare over one, and the sheep had actually scraped bare a portion of the other. They probed in other parts of the field, but had found no others. He now begged to propose a hearty vote of thanks to the Lord Bishop and Mrs. Bardsley for their hospitality and kindness.

This was seconded in appropriate and graceful language by the Attorney-General, who regretted that his engagements had prevented his more frequent attendance at the Society meetings, and expressed the pleasure he felt at being able on this occasion to he present. He was glad they had been so successful, and that so unpromising and dark a morning had cleared up and turned to so bright and pleasant a day.

The return trains stopped at the Bishop’s Court platform to take up members for Douglas and for Ramsey, and so terminated one of the most successful and agreeable excursions of the Society.


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