[From Leech's Guide, 1861]

CHAPTER V.

LEZAYRE.

There is a quiet spirit in these woods,
That dwells where’er the gentle south wind blows;
Where, underneath the white-thorn, in the glade,
The wild flowers bloom, or, kissing the soft air,
The leaves above their sunny~ palms outspread."

A drive on the Lezayre road to the village of Sulby, four miles from Ramsey, is as pleasant a week-day excursion as an exploring party can undertake. The whole distance is well wooded, and reminds the spectator of the park scenery of England. Through the continuous avenue of trees on either side of the road are caught glimpses of the surrounding rural scenery, with its adornments of elegant villas, neat thatched cottages, and rich well cultivated land. On the one side are lofty mountains, and on the other a level plain, bounded by the sand hills of the sea shore. The parish of Lezayre is commonly called, and is without exaggeration, the garden of the Island. Its name is derived from the Manx Lesh (belonging to) and Ayre, of which sheading (the Island being divided into six of these sheadings), it forms the principal parish. In former ages a large lake called Myrescough, or Myreshaw, occupied much of the area at the base of the mountains. This lake has now disappeared, not a trace of its former existence being left, unless in the turf which abounds in part of the low lands, and out of which large trunks of trees are frequently exhumed. Three Islands formerly adorned this lake, on one of which was a state prison. Meanwhile we are detaining our tourists from observation of the various pleasing objects which attract the attention on either side, as they are whirled along the smooth macadamised road, which is equal to the finest turnpike roads in England, and like the rest of the Island wholly free from the nuisance of toll bars.

Ballakillinghan
Ballakillanghan, Lezayre

The estate most worthy of note after passing Milntown is Ballakillingan, the seat of Edward Curphey Farrant, Esq. Captain of Lezayre parish, and Member of the House of Keys. Ballakillingan is approached by two splendid drives, and the grounds are beautifully and advantageously arranged; the trees about it being more numerous and of more patrician character than any to be found on the other parts of the Island. Woodlands and Ashhill are both pretty abodes, on opposite sides of the road. Glentrammon is further on, and is divided between, two proprietors. Beyond these two houses is an extensive plantation, diversified by walks and seats. If our tourists will leave their open car for half an hour,.~ and proceed with us up this narrow road, and along a winding path round the base of a rock, they will be repaid for the brief trouble by a scene of enchanting and illusive beauty. It is no marvel that the uneducated Isleman has imagined that fairies dwelt down the green depths of this glen, where irregular crags and whitened trunks of trees, twisted into a thousand fantastic forms, confuse the clearest vision. This is emphatically the fairy glen of the neighbourhood, its very name Glentrammon (trammon being Manx for elder, and the elder-tree especially belonging to the fairies), suggests the presence of these old-world mysterious and (in the opinion of some) influential beings. This glen being explored, our party may again seat themselves in their travelling conveyance and resume their journey, when other pretty residences dot the landscape, including Glenduff and Abbeville on the left, and Ellanbane and Lezayre Lodge on the right, till they reach the top of an eminence, on the left of which stands Bellevue. On the right and separated from the house and its immediate grounds by the road, there is an exceedingly pretty dell, an ornamental piece of ground belonging to Bellevue, tastefully planted and cut into terraces, artificial walks, and hullocks at the lower part will be found a smooth green sward closely cut, a trelliced arbour, with rustic bridges crossing and recrossing a running stream. All this is kindly thrown open to the orderly public, who may view it at any time by application at the house. And now we have arrived as far as Ginger Hall, a good road-side inn, where travellers, anglers, and sportsmen may refresh themselves; and crossing the bridge we find ourselves in the village of Sulby, the street of which is composed of some dozen houses, a shop, a mill, and a joiner’s establishment. The shopkeeper is also the postmaster of the district, and a little further on are a church and school, and a Methodist chapel. Turning sharply to the left the hamlet of " Old Sulby" is passed, and then opens the glen, the scenery of which is truly magnificent; the bold hills, the sides of which are carefully cultivated, while moss, fern, purple heather, the beautiful yellow furze, and fresh verdure, embellish those parts which the agriculturist has left untouched. Near the entrance are the Sulby glen starch works, conducted by George Hall, Esq. where various preparations of starch are manufactured of a very pure quality, and command an extensive sale in England. The employment afforded by this establishment is very beneficial to the working population of the neighbourhood. The river Suiby meanders through the whole length of the valley, running about a dozen miles from its source to its debouchement, and affording excellent sport to anglers in its deep pools and splendid runs. On a branch stream to the left there is a picturesque waterfall flowing through a natural bridge.

The pedestrian rambler might now take a small circuit, leaving "Old Sulby" by a substantial wooden bridge, and passing over a breezy cladagh, or common, through which the river rolls on its release from its industrial duties in the glen, would soon find himself at Primrose Hill. This singular conical elevatiori,—which is so distant from the high road that it has hitherto, we believe, escaped notice in any guide book to the Island,—onee possessed a fortification on its summit, and an abbey at its base on the further side from Sulby. A quarry now deforms its emerald slope, and sheep and wild rabbits graze upon its verdure undisturbed; but a rank bed of nettles waving in the wind near its topmost height, show where warriors’ hearts sleep beneath. A portion of the walls of the old abbey is said still to exist in the orchard of the small estate called the " Grange," now in the occupation of Mr. Walker, whose white mansion peeps through the trees at the foot of the hill. With their usual taste the holy fathers chose a most delightful and picturesque site; and the shady old orchard, watered by a clear rivulet that gurgles over mossy stones, and falls in numerous miniature cascades, formed a fit retirement, where the musing friar could count his beads undisturbed, or revolve in secret his petty conventual ambitions.


 

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