[From Cannell's Guide, 1843]
" I love thee, dear Isle ; my affections are wound
Round thy glens and thy mountains, thy oceans and streams;
A thousand endear'd recollections surround
The land where my childhood indulged its fond dreams."
Though Castletown derives, from the circumstance of its being the seat of government, a sort of metropolitan importance, Douglas is the principal, most populous, and greatest commercial town in the Island, and the place at which nearly all the visitors arrive. It is situated in the corner of a bay, enclosed by two bold promontories, more than two miles apart, and is an asylum from the tempests of the north-west and south, but is greatly exposed to storms from the east; notwithstanding which, the bay affords the best anchorage and securest refuge in St. George's Channel. Douglas harbour is an excellent one for its size, and admits vessels drawing eighteen feet of water. To improve the harbour, and render it secure during any wind, Sir William Hillary, Bart. first drew the attention of the public to the important subject of constructing a grand central harbour for the Irish sea; and some years afterwards, Sir John Rennie surveyed the proposed site, and drew up a report, approving of the project, and suggesting a plan for carrying it into effect. Other eminent engineers have subsequently been engaged in similar undertakings. Sir J. Rennie estimated the cost at £200,000. Sir William Hillary, in a more recent publication on the same subject, has suggested that the expense might be defrayed out of the surplus revenues of the Isles, amounting to between £15,000 and £20,000 annually.
On approaching the Island from the sea, the lover of the picturesque must be truly gratified with the perspective presented to his view. The first object which meets his eye, after turning either of the heads, is the Tower of Refuge, built on Conister, or St. Marys Rock ; it was projected by Sir Wm. Hillary, Bart., and the first stone was laid by Lady Hillary in April, 1832. Independent of its great utility, the tower is highly ornamental, and adds considerably to the beauty of the bay.
"E'en rocks, those Inmates of the main,
Within whose region dangers reign,
On which the seaman's fears attend,
May sometimes prove the seaman's friend.
Here rising boldly from the sea,
A rock boasts its utility :
It ne'er o'erlooks the seaman's grave,
But offers to protect and save;
And while the billows round it roar,
It guides the ship to Mona's shore."
Beyond the tower the eye takes in at one view the shore, sloping upwards to the mountains edge, studded with the residences of the principal inhabitants amongst which Mona Castle stands pre-eminent, on the beach, beneath a cliff covered with flourishing plantations.
In a recess at the south side, rises the town of Douglas, with a handsome pier, and a light-house of classical elegance, both built of yellow free-stone, at an expense to government of £25,000. The following is a model of the light-house.
Another, light-house has been erected by the Commissioners of Harbours, on the lower projection of Douglas Head, and on the larboard hand on entering the bay. The light is stationary, of the natural colour, and appears like a star of the first magnitude at the distance of 15 miles.
On the south side of the harbour, opposite the light-house, stands Fort Anne, the picturesque seat of Sir Wm. Hillary, Bart. the founder of the Royal National Institution for the Preservation of Life from Shipwreck, and the projector, and principal contributor to the erection of, the Tower of Refuge.
ADDRESS TO DOUGLAS,-BY A VISITOR.
Thy lovely bay, thy grand and noble pier,
Thy woodland scenes, thy waters pure and clear
Thy breezes soft, imparting health's sweet balm,
To cheer the mind, the body's pain to calm ;
Thy lofty bills, with emerald verdure crown'd
Thy cattle feeding on the sloping ground ;
Thy peaceful valley, dotted o'er with sheep;
Thy own pure river, flowing to the deep;
These, and a thousand charms my heart beguile:
Oh, how I love thee ! Douglas of the Isle.
Thy rock of refuge, too, with beacon tow'r,
For hapless seamen, wreck'd in peril's hour -
What words can tell the thoughts within me rais'd,
Of bliss bestow'd, as on it I have gaz'd:
To soothe each being who the storm outlives,
This little tow'r a welcome refuge gives:
Where oft the home-bound skiff, in times of yore,
Hath struck upon the rock in sight of shore !.
Oh, Hillary! thy philanthropic heart
In love hath rais'd this magic piece of art
The bay's chief ornament,-with. use combin'd,.
It stands the beacon, too of thy great mind !
In chaste simplicity it rears its head,
Nor heeds the spray, nor wildest storm doth dread!
Secure within Its sea-girt islet rock,
Its modest walls may brave Time's latest shock.,
Thy scenes I still retrace, they still beguile
My heart to love thee-Douglas of the Isle !
Nearer the Head is Harold Tower, a very handsome mansion occupied by James Quirk, Esq. the High Bailiff. The tower over the Head serves only as a land-mark for mariners.
The Quay is spacious, and well adapted to the purposes of trade. All vessels having license goods are, by act of parliament, compelled to deliver their cargoes exclusively at this port. The Custom-house is conveniently situated for business; it was erected during the prevalence of the contraband trade by one of those persons who had realised a considerable property in that pursuit; but in the panic following the revestment of the Island, it was sold to the Duke of Athol,. whom made it for some time his residence. It is rented by the Board of Customs, of Messrs. Scott,. whose property it now is.
The streets, as in, most old sea-port towns are irregular, crowded, and confused, but contain many excellent comfortable houses ; the shops are large,. some very splendid, especially in Duke Street, and are well furnished with goods and rnerchandize of all sorts, more so indeed, than is usually to be met within a country town of the same size. Douglas contains about 8,000 inhabitants, and has become a place of considerable bustle and traffic. In the vicinity of the town, many large mansions. numerous beautiful villas, rural seats, and genteel residences, have recently been erected, and are occupied by wealthy individuals, and buildings are progressing at a rapid rate.
As a Gas Company has been established, it is much to be regretted that the town is not lighted, except along the quay during the winter, and that at the expense of the harbour trust; but most of the principal shops are fitted up with gas, which adds much to the respectability of their appearance. As nothing tends so much to preserve the peace and quietness of a town, and protect the property of the inhabitants from nightly depredations, as lighted streets at night, we are surprised at the apathy of the Douglas gentry and tradesmen ;- still we do hope shortly to see a measure so essentially necessary, carried into effect. -
Formerly the inhabitants wore supplied with water carried about in carts; a Water Company has, however, within these few years past, been formed by a set of spirited gentlemen, and which has nearly annihilated the abominable nuisance which had so long, and so disgracefully annoyed the people. The main reservoir is situated above the Crescent, is ninety feet higher than the level of the sea at high water, and capable of supplying every house in the town. The water is clear and excellent, and the establishment of the company has been of great benefit to the town.
But the greatest advantage which has been conferred upon the Island, and is likely to continue such, was the formation of a Steam Packet Company. Before that company was established, the communication with the Island was kept up by means of sailing packets from Liverpool and Whitehaven ; and it has not unfrequently occurred, that all intercourse with the Island and the parent country has been stopped for a month or six weeks, and scarcely a stranger would then ever think of visiting the Island for pleasure. Now, however, as the passage is generally made in eight hours, and the packets come daily, and are worked in the roughest weather with the most astonishing precision, the visitors during the season, are indeed numerous. The packets, the Mona's Isle and Queen of the Isle, (the former of which, when first launched, was considered by competent judges, the handsomest model that over appeared in the Clyde or the Mersey,) are each commanded by experienced seamen, thoroughly acquainted with the Manx coast, and by whom every attention is paid to the comfort and accommodation of the passengers.
Q uick through the waves her headlong course she speeds,
U ncurb'd and free, no useless sail she needs
E nough for her is thy Herculean pow'r
E xpanding Steam !-When clouds look black and low'r,
N ay, When the tempest sweeps along the deep,
O r mountain waves t'oppose her fiercely sweep,
F irm and secure, their fury she'll defy,
T hrough all their hostile strife she'll onward fly.
H er beauteous form, her majesty and grace,,
E ach ornament, so quited to its place,
I fain would tell of-but her noble crew
S ome praise demand - to them our praise 1.4 dhe.*
L ong may her brave and gallant Captain Gill, * ia.W
E njoy the office he so well can fill.
When the tide answers the packet invariably comes into the harbour, at other times it anchors inside of Douglas head, about 100 yards from the Pier, and the passengers are immediately brought ashore, with care and safety, free of any charge, by boatmen stationed for the purpose. The landing boats are regularly numbered, and each boatman has also his respective number attached to the arm by means of a brass plate, without which, no porter or boatman is allowed to approach the vessel, and the police are always in attendance, on the arrival of the packet, to put in force these regulations, and to prevent confusion and imposition. The trip on a fine day, is really delightful ; except to a few the effect of the motion of the vessel, steadily directed by powerful machinery, is much less than that usually produced by the swell caused by the wind and the tides in sailing packets. The mails are conveyed by these packets; every day in the summer, and twice a week in winter; and one of them carries goods, which is found to be a great accommodation to persons in business. The fare from Liverpool to Douglas, during the summer is only 7s. 6d. cabin, 3s. steerage. There is also a. steam communication kept up with Whitehaven,. Douglas, and Dublin, during the summer season; and the Scotch packets call at Ramsey on their passage to and from Liverpool. There are also several regular trading vessels to Liverpool, Whitehaven, and the Scotch and Irish ports.
STEAM PACKET AGENTS.
Queen of the Isle and Mona's Isle
Mr. E. Moore,
Mr. J. Clark,
Ramsey, Liverpool, and Glasgow
Mr.- J. Heelis
The Isle of Man district association of the Royal National Institution, for the preservation of life from shipwreck, which institution originated in this Island, under the auspices of Sir W. Hillary, Bart., is held in this town. It was founded in 1824, under the immediate patronage of the King, the princes of the blood royal, and many of the leading men in the state; it provides good clothing, medical assistance,, and the means of returning to their homes, the destitute sufferers of all nations, and has life boats, and a complete set of Captain Hanby's apparatus, in constant readiness, at all the principal ports. This district association is under the immediate superintendence of his Excellency the Governor, as patron ; Sir William Hillary, Bart.,. president.
There is a National Daily and Sunday Free School in the town ; it is a substantial building in Athol street, and was erected in 1812, by subscriptions and donations, at a cost of £1,118 8s. 5d. It has educated 4580 children since its establishment. At the present time 300 children are in attendance daily, receiving instruction according to the national plan of education. Mr. James Crettney is the master, and Mrs. Jane Kneale the mistress, at salaries very inadequate to the duties they have to fulfill.
This school is wholly supported by subscriptions. and donations, and the contributions after two sermons annually preached at St. George's Church. A subscriber is entitled to send two scholars for every guinea. There are also Infant Schools, and Sunday Schools at all the Chapels.
There are various benefit societies, also, which establish this great truth, of infinite national importance, that the people in general are competent to their own maintenance; the nation, no doubt, has saved millions by these beneficial institutions, and they certainly deserve much praise and encouragement.
Two Lodges of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, of the Manchester Unity, have been opened in the town, and the number of members is about 260, and are rapidly increasing.
A Mechanics' Institute had been some years established, and was liberally encouraged. The whole library was consumed by fire about eighteen months back; it is rising rapidly, however, out of its own ashes, and is very generously supported by many respectable inhabitants ; the books are selected with much care and judgment, and the working community derive much benefit from it. The subscription is only 6s, per annum.
There are three good Banks in Douglas; Messrs. Holmes', on the South Quay, Mr. James Haining Cashier, draw on Masterman and Co. ; the Isle of Man Joint Stock, North Quay, Edw. Forbes,. Esq., Manager. Mr. John C. Charles, Cashier; draw on Williams, Deacon,. and Co.; Isle of Man Commercial, Prospect Hill, Wm. Dickie, Esq., Manager, Mr. Henry Johnson, Cashier; draw on Prescott, Grote, and Co. There is also a Saving's Bank in, Great George's Street
is situate in one of the narrowest and most inconvenient lanes in the town ; the mails arrive and depart every day in summer, and twice a week in winter. It is much to be regretted that some other site is not chosen for the Post-office, for since the reduction in the charge for postage, the increase of letters has been of so great a magnitude, that from the confined and contracted situation of the office, and the smallness of the internal department, it has become exceedingly burthersome to the distributor, and sorely annoying to the receiver. In winter the approach to it on a dark night is dangerous, and the confusion that ensues is indescribable, for, to the shame of the Post-office surveyor, the place is left in total darkness. The utmost civility and attention is manifested by Mr. Graves, and every one engaged in the delivery of the letters.
There are several in the town ; that established by Mr. Jefferson, in Duke Street, is the oldest and best in the Island, for choice selection and variety ; it contains double sets of all Sir Walter Scott's novels' and the productions of all the popular and fashionable novelists of the age: to which has been recently added, several publications of Voyages and Travels, by the latest and most celebrated authors. Mr. Dillon has one on the North Quay, besides which there is the Mechanics' and the Isle of Mann Libraries.
There are five Offices in Douglas at four of which newspapers are printed. The one in Duke-street, under the title of the "Advertiser," has been established upwards of thirty-nine years, during the whole of which period, it has been conducted by the present proprietor, Mr. G. Jefferson. The principles of the Advertiser are, and have from its commencement been strictly Conservative. It has not only ever been a strenuous supporter of the throne, and the established religion of the realm, but has always advocated, and not unsuccessfully, the continuance of those ancient Insular laws and institutions, which have raised the little Island to its present state of respectability and splendour. An Almanack is annually printed at the Advertiser office ; the edition for 1840 was the 38th impression. The Sun, which is printed on the North Quay, is the property of Mr. James Grellier and Mr. John Quiggin, the publisher; it has been in their possession about fourteen years. The principles of the Sun, are professedly, conservative, but its editorial articles are generally of a luke-warm nature. An Almanack is also printed by Mr. Quiggin. The Herald is printed at the top of Post Office Lane, by R. Faragher and Co. It has been established about six years; its principles are Radical, and it is a strong opponent of the ancient Insular institutions, and a strenuous advocate for innovations of a dangerous tendency. The "Liberal" is the property of, and is printed by Mr. J. R. Wallace, the proprietor of the Museum,. in Great George Street; its principles are what its title represents Liberal, PROFUSELY Liberal. If we are to be guided in our judgment by the editorial articles in that paper, we must infer that the proprietor is decidedly hostile to a monarchical Government, and not remarkable for his support of the Holy Scriptures. The other office is in Great Nelson Street, and the proprietor of it is Mr. William Walls.
in Great George's-street, is worthy the inspection of the visitor; it contains an immense quantity of very choice and scarce curiosities from every quarter of the globe. A great number of the articles, we understand, wore collected by the proprietor himself, during several voyages that he made in his youthful days to foreign climes, and the collection has been greatly augmented by many valuable presents since its establishment, in 1835. It would be folly in us to attempt to give even an epitome of the collection of curiosities which will there meet the eye of the admirers of the products of nature and art, and as the admission is no more than one shilling, we do not know how a visitor can pass a few hours better, than in inspecting the various curiosities that he will there meet with. Mona is, we believe, the only Island attached to the British dominions, that can boast of having a collection of curiosities, worthy the appellation of a MUSEUM.
Consist of hot and cold sea-water, shower and vapour baths, fitted up in a neat and comfortable manner at the end of the Parade. Bathing-machines are also to be met with in great numbers along the shore.
The sands afford a fine ride, extending near two miles, terminated by romantic rocks, down which in winter run two beautiful cascades ; the sea-water is peculiarly clear, and the view of the bay is delightful, and the swelling sails that so often solicit attention, break the fatigue which the eye would otherwise feel from the vast expanse of water.
As a sea-bathing. place Douglas is not surpassed by any in the United Kingdom. For the salubrity of the air-the clearness and strength of the water-the numerous suitable residences and lodging-houses erected along the shore and in the town, for the accommodation of visitors-and the moderation in all charges, are strong inducements for genteel families to take up their residence here.
Besides the parish church of Braddan, which is nearly two miles from the town, there are three chapels belonging, to the Established Church; one of them is situate on one side of the Market-place, and is dedicated to St. Matthew ; it contains about 300 sittings, and was consecrated by Bishop Wilson in 1708. To it is attached a Library, established by Bishop Wilson, and augmented by Bishop Hildesley. On an eminence to the west of the town, just above Athol-street, is St. George's Chapel, a large, modern, and elegant building, erected by subscription ; it has spacious pews and galleries, which will comfortably accommodate 800 persons, and it has also a handsome fine toned organ. A new chapel, capable of accommodating 1,500 persons, has been erected in Fort-street, and is dedicated to St. Barnabas. This is one of the chapels constructed out of the funds obtained for that purpose in England, by Bishop Ward and the Rev. Hugh Stowell. One-third of the sittings are free. At the upper end of the harbour is moored a vessel, formerly employed as a transport, granted by Lord de Grey,- then first Lord of the Admiralty,- at the request of Bishop Ward, in which service is regularly performed on the Sabbath. There is also a place of worship erected in Finch Road, for the adherents of the Scotch Church, and a Chapel in Athol-street for the Independents.
The Wesleyan Methodists have two large Chapels, one in Thomas-street, which seats a thousand persons, and another in Well Road that will contain six hundred; underneath the latter are spacious school-rooms. The Primitive Methodists have also a Chapel in Factory Lane, which is capable of containing seven hundred persons.
The Roman Catholics, who formerly occupied a small building on the Castletown Road, about a mile from Douglas, as a Chapel, which was dedicated to St. Bridget, the founder of the Nunnery, have removed into Athol-street. We believe there has never been on the Island the conversion of a single native to Popery; so deeply rooted is the attachment of the Manx to the Established Church.
A few years ago there were no asylums for distress of any kind in this town ; the indigent had no house to shelter them in age; the sick had no hospital; the poor married woman no watchful nurse or doctor to attend her, and administer to her sufferings ; but NOW there has sprung up, by the exertions of the clergy, and the humanity of the affluent, institutions of the noblest nature. Douglas can now boast of having a House of Industry for the relief of the aged indigent, but deserving of both sexes; - a Dispensary, for affording medical assistance to those who may require it; -a Ladies' Society, for the distribution of soup and other nourishment to the poor; -a Lying-in Charity, for providing baby-linen and other necessaries for the use of deserving married women, whose circumstances require a little aid and assistance at that period ; besides many other beneficial societies truly honourable to the projectors. And all these institutions are upheld and supported by the voluntary contributions of the inhabitants, and sums collected after sermons preached in their behalf at the different churches and chapels in the town.
is carried on to a fair extent in the town. The " Bath" yard, near the Parade, the property of James Aikin, Esq. is by far the largest establishment; many beautiful vessels have here been launched from their stocks, and have reflected great credit on the builder; the concern is under the entire management of Mr. J.Winram. Several pretty small craft have also been built by Messrs. Quiggin and Co., and Messrs. John Moore and. Co.
The market has, from time immemorial, been hold in the open air, and such is the attachment of the lower class of the Manx people to the old customs, that it may be said to resemble superstition, for although a most excellent market-house has been erected, and they were offered gratuitous standings in it, they will not desert their ancient " Old Cross" thus are respectable families compelled to stand in the open air during. the most boisterous and tempestuous weather, to purchase their poultry, eggs, and butter. The market-house, therefore, which is a model in miniature, of St. John's, at Liverpool, and creditable to the unfortunate speculators. is entirely deserted. The market is on a Saturday, and is well supplied with provisions, and vegetables of all kinds.
There is no watering place in the United Kingdom where there is better accommodation for visitors, than in this little Island ; or where more respect is paid, or greater civility, liberality, and attention are shewn to them by the proprietors of Hotels and respectable Lodging Houses. Castle Mona, situated a little more than half a mile from the town, is the largest Hotel in the Island ; it is a princely mansion, magnificent for its size, and the grounds around it, (which are very extensive, prettily laid out, and planted with a variety of exotics and native shrubs) are reserved exclusively for the inmates of the Hotel ; Mr. Heron, formerly of the Porto Bello, Dublin, is the proprietor.
The York Hotel, on the Parade, has been long established, and has ever been conducted in the most creditable and respectable manner; it is an excellent residence for visitors, and the present proprietor is Mr. J. McKenzie, to whom, for a number of years, had been confided the sole and entire management of the British Hotel, during the life of the late Mrs. Dixon. His establishment has lately been increased by the addition of a comfortable private hotel, for the accommodation of families who wish to avoid the noise and bustle of a public hotel. Here the visitor way enjoy the ease and quiet of a private mansion, with the comforts and luxuries of an hotel, on very liberal terms. This establishment is within one hundred yards of the hot and cold baths ; about the same distance from the shore and the pier, which is the grand promenade in Douglas. The only public billiard table in the town is at the York.
The British, and the Victoria, are also very excellent and convenient Hotels ; the. former is situate in the market-place, the proprietor of which is Mr. J. Nelson ; the latter near the pier, and is kept by Mr. Thomas Statham.
Very good accommodation and civil treatment will be met with at, Robinson's, (late Redfern's,) in St. James's' street; Cain's, Queen-street; Poole's, on the Parade; Braid's,.in Moore's-court; Crelley's, Churchstreet; Hodgson's, in Heywood.place, Proctor's, in Lord-street; and Lewis's in Mucklesgate.
The largest and oldest in the island, is at the commencement of the pier; many of the vehicles are real "Bang ups;" and the " turns out" are dashing, stylish, and elegant. The concern is. carried on by, Mr. John Dale, and the visitor will experience here, what is not met with at every establishment of the kind even in England, viz. 'civility, attention, and good language.' There is also an extensive establishment, connected with Castle Mona Hotel, which is conducted by Mr. Hensley. Mr. Braid, of the Cumberland, has also a, very excellent horse and carriage concern.
Capital vehicles, and good horses may also be had at Robinson's, (late Redfern's,) Fort-street. and at Cain's, Saddle Inn, Queen's-street.
The pier forms the principal evening promenade for the townspeople; it is 500 feet long and 40 broad; at its termination. it expands to a breadth of 90 feet, of much greater elevation, and which is ascended by a flight of steps. From this spot the stranger must,
With raptur'd eye, and mind serene,
Admire the grandeur of the scene;
Pleas'd he'll survey the placid main,
The beauties of the liquid plain,
And listen to the murmurs bland,
Of ripp'ling waves that wash the strand,
While stately ships in gallant pride,
Smooth o'er its lucid bosom glide,
And to the raptur'd sight display
Their swelling sails, and streamers gay.
From this spot too he will find
The landscape's varied charms display,
Romantic hills, and prospects gay.
On the pier is a small building, in which the Deemster, the High Bailiffs the Vicar-General and the Magistrates transact business; adjoining which is a filthy hole for the confinement of disorderlies and culprits, previous to their being examined. It is a disgrace to the town of Douglas, and a proper place of confinement is very much wanted. Formerly, an ancient fort, or round tower, which stood at the bight of Pollock's rock was used as a place of confinement for common offences, but it has been pulled down about twenty years. The following is a delineation of it.
The United Service Club, established in 1829, hold their meetings in a room at the end of the pier. It is the daily resort of the half-pay naval and military gentlemen in Douglas; a very short distance from which is the Isle of Man Library, and a Subscription News Room.
The Head, or what is called the Howe, of Douglas, is the first spot a stranger should visit, as a view from it will convey a general and accurate idea of the town and of the Island. To arrive at it, he will cross the bridge at the end of the harbour, and, turning to the left, will pass the large Iron Foundry of Mrs. Gelling and Sons, and the Gas Works; on ascending the hill he will go by Fort Anne, the residence of the philanthropic Hillary, and Harold Tower, a mansion occupied by the Acting Attorney-General of the Island; on arriving at the summit, the sea view, as well as that along the shore, will be found magnificently grand. From hence the eye delighted will rove over the vest expanse of water which foams around the rude, broken precipices, and if the visitor be of a philosophic turn he will exclaim,
Ocean ! I love to view thy dark blue face,
To bear thee rippling on the slielvy shore:
To me, thy form bath greatness, grandeur, grace-
To me, there's more than music in thy roar.
Yet thou art false and fickle; and though now
Thy billows beat but softly on their bounds,
Anon, convuls'd and toss'd tempestuous, thou
Wilt, foaming furious batter down thy mounds-
Thy soft smooth wave the sailor's view beguiles,
With sunny surface hiding oft the storm,
Like Friends who flatter when fair fortune smiles,
To hate the more when frowns her brow deform.
A spirit reigns within thee, and his will
Sighs in the breeze and thunders in the blast
Telling of titings invisible, yet still
'Tis formless, viewless, voiceless, dark and vast.
Spending, but never spent, man marks in thee
And thy deep billows, that no force can lull,
A Type of Time hid in Eternity,
For ever flowing, yet for ever full!
Having glutted himself with a view of the ocean, the high lands of Wales, and a long extent of the Cumberland coast, crowned with distant mountains, on casting his sight inward he will be struck with the unrivalled beauty of the panorama before him. At one glance his eye will take in nearly every gentleman's residence in the neighbourhood. But the scene itself must be viewed-its sublimity cannot be described.
The walk up by the river, through the grove of the Nunnery, is much frequented as a promenade. The visitor, after crossing the bridge at the end of the harbour, will take the right-hand road until lie arrive at the Nunnery Lodge, the gate of which he will enter, and proceed along the gravel path until lie arrive at the mansion, the beautiful seat of General Goldie, Speaker of the House of Keys, and which takes its. name from an ancient structure formerly occupying the same site, but of which scarcely a vestige remains.
The Nunnery is much admired by all visitors, the saloon and other apartments are fine and elegantly furnished. The grounds are extensive, and the gardens, which are laid out with much taste, contain a great variety of shrubs, and evergeens remarkable for their size. Proceeding from the Nunnery the visitor will enter a grove, and by pursuing its track or footpath, will arrive at a mill, through the yard of which he will pass, and after crossing two meadows will arrive at Mill Mount, some beautiful modern villas erected by Mr. J. Donaldson, who is also the owner of the mill, as well as of the bridge house and cottage near it. On crossing the road which leads to Castletown, and continuing his walk, the visitor will pass Ballaughton, the pretty mansion of John Wulff, Esq., on the left, and Kirby, the delightfully situated summer residence of Sir George Drinkwater, on the right, soon after which he will arrive at
The situation of which creates a romantic effect, and presents several objects highly interesting to the imagination. It is surrounded with trees, and the Churchyard is crowded with tombstones and monuments. The date of the erection of the Church is not known ; but Bishop Wilson says,-" Rendered, flagged, and put a new east window to the Chancel, 1704; I gave six pounds to Kirk Braddan vicarage house, 1705 ; 1739, I gave £20 towards paying a glebe to Kirk Braddan, with £35 of Mr. Thomson's; 1741, I gave £15 towards building a new house for the vicarage." The church was rebuilt in 1773. It is neatly pewed, contains 400 sittings, and service is performed every third Sunday morning in Manx, and in the afternoons exclusively in English. In front of the church, nearly in the centre of the church-yard, stands a stone with the following inscription :
Durlifr neaci riati crus done Aftfiac sunfin fudar sun Safrsag.
Which has been thus translated,-
For Admiral Durliff, this cross was erected by the son of his brother, the son of Sarreag."
The following lines are extracted from a beautiful poem written some years ago by Miss E. S. Craven:
I linger'd o'er the silent characters
Of a forgotten language, darkly gone
With those who traced them to their sepulchres,
Until it seemed their shadowy lore was won.* * * * *
And Thou ! O silent dweller in the dust,
Was this fair earth as full of bliss for thee ?
Hadst thou as bright a hope, as firm a trust,
A heart of such enthusiastic fervency ?
Thou answerest not 1-the silent mystery
Of the grave has no voice, or will not show
The secret of its power ; and such shall be
My resting place, as nameless, and as low.
Didst thou come proudly o'er the ocean foam,
To the lone Island of the storms to reign
A northern Sea-king in thy desert home-
The dark usurper of the trackless main ?
Or woke thy spirit in this lonely Isle
First to the light-child of the wilderness-
Free as its stormy waters, by the smile
Of sunbeams seldom blest, (not loved the less
For all their tempests ?) Was it there to press
With the first wind of morn, amid the still
And shadowy mists, from thy lone cave's recess,
To wake the red deer on their silent hill ?
Tired hunter of the Isle-thy chase is past:
Dark ruler of the waters-we can trace
The shadow of thy course o'er ocean-cut ;
It is forgotten, like thy resting place !
Where is the legend of thy name or race ?
Far In the midst of ages time has shed
Oblivion o'er~thy glory or disgrace-
We know but this - thy rest is with the dead.
Tradition relates that a Danish chief was interred beneath this stone, and his family or exploits are supposed to be recorded on it. Another stone, bearing marks of great antiquity, stands against the tower of the steeple. Close to the principal entrance to the church is a stone with the following remarkable intimation :-" Here underneath the body of the Rev. Mr. Patrick Thompson, minister of God's word forty years, at present Vicar of Kirk Braddan, aged 67, anno 1678, deceased anno 1689." The reverend gentleman, it would appear, had the stone engraved eleven years before he died. Amongst the monuments is one of a splendid kind, erected to the memory of Lord Henry Murray, brother to the late Duke of Athol; near its base is the following inscripcion: "This sincere testimonial of affection, and deep regret for their commander and friend, is erected by the officers of the regiment
' His saltem accumulem donis et fungar inani munere.' "
If the visitor have a taste for rural scenery, he will hardly find that taste more amply gratified than by viewing that hallowed spot, where lie in deep silence thousands and tens of thousands who once trod the busy stage of life. He can scarcely behold the venerable sanctuary with the solemn surrounding scenery, without being forcibly reminded of those beautiful lines of Gray :-
"Beneath these rugged elms, that yew trees shade,
Where heaven the turf in many a mouldering heap,
Each in his narrow cell for ever laid,
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."
Closely adjoining the stone with the Runic characters is a flat one with the following inscription
Ayns Coonaghtyn . Jeh
boor baaso yn cheid Iaa j' October, Ylein
Logh cheeadyoig as. ananejeig as feed
Jeih Meeghynd cash.
Near the top of the Church-yard is a marble tablet with the following:
In memory of William Scott, Esq., ReceiverGeneral and Collector of the Customs in this Island, Ob., August 28th, 1818, Etat. 52.
During an arduous, zealous, and attentive exertion of twenty-eight years in the execution of oflicial duty in the public service, his conduct was eminently distinguished and approved. The affection and esteem of his family and friends during life, and the manifestation of their. deep regret upon his decease, may be considered the best testimonials of the excellence of his private character.
Leaving the church-yard, and returning to Douglas, by the Peel-road, the pedestrian will pass Port-e-chee or the harbour of peace; it is situate at the end of an extensive flat meadow, on the left, and was formerly the residence of his Grace the Duke of Athol. but is now the property of Sir George Drinkwater.
At Port-o-chee bridge, or the Quarter-bridge, by which name it is generally called, (and here the pedestrian can rest and refresh. himself, if he think proper,) the road on the right leads to the Castletown road, and that on the left to the pretty village of Onchan, or to the sands, of Douglas bay. Proceeding onward by the main road, the visitor will come to Ballabrooie, the castellated villa of Robert M'Guffog, Esq.; many years Comptroller of the Customs, for the port of Douglas, but recently appointed Collector of Fowie, in Cornwall; not far from which, is Mount Vernon. the seat of Doctor Curran, very pleasantly situated, but almost secluded from the eye of the traveller; adjoining which is Burleigh, the beautiful villa of F. Byne, Esq., near which is Thornton Lodge, the admired residence of Edw. Forbes, Esq. ; at the foot of the hill, on an eminence on the left, stands Belmont, the splendid demesne of G. W. Dumbell, Esq.; at the summit of hill on the left, are extensive strawberry gardens, kept by Mr. J. Jolly, where our pedestrian may walk in and regale himself at a moderate expense; a few yards from the gardens on the opposite side of the road is the handsome seat of Colonel Goldie, quite concealed from view by a heavy wall; it is occupied by John Duggan, Esq.