Buck Whaley's Memoirs

INCLUDING HIS JOURNEY TO
JERUSALEM

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF IN 1797 AND NOW FIRST PUBLISHED
FROM THE RECENTLY RECOVERED MANUSCRIPT

Edited, with Introduction and Notes,

BY

SIR EDWARD SULLIVAN, BART.

LONDON
ALEXANDER MORING LTD
THE DE LA MORE PRESS
32 GEORGE STREET HANOVER SQUARE W
MCMVI

Buck Whaley as a boy
Buck Whaley as a boy
[From a painting in the possession of John Whaley, Esq. of Annsboro, Naas, Co. Kildare]

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PREFACE

 
   
 

OF THE FIRST VOLUME

  Title page of Manuscript  

Notice

 

CHAPTER I.

Introduction-My Birth-My Mother's Character-My Own-A Journey to France-Auch-The House Establishment of an Englishman in Foreign Countries - A French Bishop-A Match Proposed-An Intrigue-A Journey to Marseilles-To Lyons-An Acquaintance with Gamblers-Honesty of a Foreign Banker-Paris-A French Courtezan-An Assignation-My Stepfather Introduced

CHAPTER II.

My Return to Dublin-An Extraordinary Wager-A Sea journal - Description of an Albacore-The Moorish Fleet-Gibralter -The Grand Battery-St. George's Hall-Poco Roco, or Eliott's Parlour-Ince's Gallery-Willis's Battery or Queen's Gallery-The King's Bastion-St. Michael's Cave-Some Remarks on Gibralter

CHAPTER III.

The Sea Voyage resumed-The Island of St. Peter-Sicily-Mount Olympus-A Storm-Smyrna-A Tandour-L'Avant Souper-The Custom-House-A Caravan-A Mosque -A Turkish Bath-A Lead-Foundry-Character of Pauolo, my Servant-A Turkish Burying-Ground-Journey to Constantinople-Magnesia-Its Governor-Preparation for a Battle

CHAPTER IV.

Constantinople-Pera-Dancing Boys-The Grand Signior's Procession to St. Sophia-View of Constantinople-The Grand Signior's Barges Mosque of St. Sophia-The Character of CaPitan Pasha-Our Reception-Turkish Fleet-Dervishes The Seraglio ,

CHAPTER V.

Constantinople continued-Pera-Its Antiquities-Obelisks-Cistern of Basilica-The Slave Market-The Coffee ManufactoryThe Watch-Tower-The Seven Towers-Ramaden-A Bath for the Ladies-Character of the Turks-Dress-The Ladies-Their Food-Their Diversions-Arts and Sciences -A Turkish Billet-Doux-The Plague-The Police-The Grand Signior-Public Buildings-Marriages-Janissaries

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Constantinople-The Dardanelles-Ancient TroyReturn to Smyrna-Homer's Cavern-Population of Smyrna -Ephesus-The River Meander-Fogia Nova-Seis-Patmos -A Greek Seminary-St. John the Evangelist-St. John of Acre-Nazareth-The Church of the Annunciation-The Governor of Nazareth
 

OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Nazareth-Genia-Its Governor-Napolosa-Its Ruins-Jerusalem-Its History-Conquered by King DavidBy Nebuchadnezzar-By Cyrus-By Pompey-By Titus-Demolished by Adrian-Who Lays the Foundation of a New City-Jerusalem taken by Omar

CHAPTER II.

Jerusalem continued-The Temple of the Resurrection-The Holy Sepulchre-The House of Pontius Pilate-The House of Herod-The Armenian Convent-Mount of Olives-Fountain of Silva-Journey to Bethlehem-The Valley of the Giants-Fens Signatus-The Convent of Terra SanctaBasilica di Santa Maria-The Street of the Cross

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Jerusalem-Attacked by Arabs-Napolosa-Its Governor-Its Various Names and Revolutions-Origin of the Samaritans-Difficulties in leaving Napolosa-Character of the Arabs-Arrival at St. John of Acre -Caiffa

CHAPTER IV

Departure from Acre-Cyprus-Its General History-Character of its present Inhabitants, etc.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Cyprus-Character and Manners of the Modern Greeks-Crete-Arrival at Marseilles-The Lazaretto-Paris -Dublin-Brighton-English Blacklegs-A Scuffle with Opposition-The French Revolution, etc.- A French Gambling-house-King's Return from Varennes, etc. Reflections on Gaming, etc.

CHAPTER VI.

A Journey to Switzerland-Lausanne-The Glaciers-Mr. B._ Some Observations on the Swiss-Their Candour-Their Bravery-Their Honesty-National Honour-Public Justice Geneva-Milan-Florence-Rome-Some Reflections on Italy . .

CHAPTER VII.

My Return to Paris-The Valois Club-The King's Trial-His Death-The Duke of Orleans-A Duel-Égalité-Lisle-Brussels-The Theatre-Calais-A Journey to Ostend-to Dover-to London-Conclusion
     

APPENDIX

 

INDEX

 
  Addition notes - Knutsford
   

 

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.*

1. AN ALLEGORICAL FRONTISPIECE. Page
2. A VIEW OF SMYRNA 37
3- PAUOLO, MY FAITHFUL SERVANT 163
4. MAGNESIA 177
5 A VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE 217
6. MY PRESENTATION TO CAPITAN PASHA 234
7. THE GRAND SIGNIOR'S SERAGLIO 252
8. A TURKISH LADY COMING OUT OF THE BATH 284

[ The accidental loss of these sketches is referred to in the text, p. 107. For list of illustrations in this volume, see p. xlv.]


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